Osso Buco: Feeney’s Version

By Christopher C. Happ
Phoenix Entertainment Magazine

I went to Feeney’s on a Friday evening to sample the pork Osso Buco, ($19.95).  Louis Panos, has owned the restaurant for twenty years.  Prior to Louis’ regime, this was a Cork N’ Cleaver restaurant, once owned by Pat Feeney.   

Frank was my server. He asked me if I preferred the dish with a sherry-wine sauce or Tomato sauce.  I chose the mushroom sauce just due to tradition.  I had never had the dish served with a Tomato sauce. I asked if the dish was served on rice.  He said that I could choose, rice pilaf or pasta or they would be happy to serve it with a little bit of both and both sauces.  I opted for the rice and fresh vegetables. 

I took advantage of the salad bar and prepared my own small bleu Cheese salad.  Frank brought hot Sourdough and Pumpernickel bread and butter which I nibbled sparingly.  I had not eaten all day in anticipation. 

I ordered a Pinot Grigio by the glass, as I thought that a big red might overpower the mild pork.  The entrée was brought in a reasonable amount of time and Frank’s timing was impeccable.

The plate presentation was very nice.  The shank was placed on a pool of the mushroom-sherry sauce with rice and vegetables on each side.  The shank was massive. I later confirmed with Louis that he was purchasing a 14-16 ounce shank; weight before cooking.

The central bone protruded upward and was crowned with a small fork for retrieving the heart of the dish, the marrow.   The fork was a little too big to insert.  I was concerned that the pork marrow might not be firm enough to extract.  Actually I believe that it had liquefied during the cooking process. 

The meat was perfectly cooked and the bone pulled out effortlessly.  I was left with a huge portion of solid, tender muscle.  I used my knife to facilitate cutting it into bite-sized pieces but it was almost unnecessary.  The rich brown sauce complemented the Pork nicely.  My entrée was accompanied by a mixture of fresh carrot, zucchini and broccoli; also cooked to perfection. 

The portion is more than ample for one.  The meat, so tender, so rich.  Melt-in-your-mouth; is an apt description.  The white Pinot Grigio was a good choice, as the meat was mild, yet flavorful.  The dish was much richer than I had anticipated and half-way through, I thought perhaps the tomato sauce may have been a better choice.  The acidity of the tomato may have cut the richness just enough. I can imagine the dish is well-rounded with pasta and tomato sauce.

Frank inquired about dessert, but there was no way!  I did order a cup of strong hot coffee to terminate the dining process.  Afterwards I enjoyed a Sambuca with coffee beans, in the cool October clime, on the airy patio.  With the nice music in the background, I could easily have imagined myself at a fine eatery in San Francisco or New York.

Feeney’s has a fine selection of wines by the bottle or glass.  Louis does a nice job with fish.  Salmon and Walleye Pike are permanent additions.  I was almost envious watching slabs of prime rib pass my table.  Louis cuts his own USDA Choice top sirloin steaks and offers Filet Mignon, New York Strip  King Crab Legs and a nice selection of appetizers. The shrimp cocktail is sweet and succulent.  My tab was only $28.05 before tip. 

Feeney’s Restaurant & Bar
6314  N. 12th St.
Phoenix, AZ 85012

Hours of Operation
Monday 10:00 AM - 12:30 AM
Tuesday 10:00 AM - 12:30 AM
Wednesday 10:00 AM - 12:30 AM
Thursday 10:00 AM - 12:30 AM
Friday 10:00 AM - 12:30 AM
Saturday 10:00 AM - 12:30 AM
Sunday: 05:00 PM - 12:30 AM

Reservations Suggested